ROCK HARBOR INSTALLATION
Thank you for purchasing our Milestone products. They have been developed to install with simple common techniques and available products.
- Purchase 3 / 5 gal. pails of Laticrete 333 - super flexible additive from:
DAL Tile
1714 Louisville Drive
Knoxville, IN 37921
865-588-2155
You may want to pick up the grout needed here too. Make sure the grout has latex admix in it or purchase it. Who decides which color is needed?
- Purchase- SIKA-Anchoring Adhesive Anchor Fix -1 from your local Home Depot
There are a few critical aspects of this installation:
- Radius of top of sign
- Length of sign in relation to pieces with “Rock Harbor” lettering
- Hole placement into back of shield:
A. Where the holes are placed so as not to drill into the face
B. Depth of the holes for same reason above.
The first order of business would be the perimeter of the sign (T-60s).
Provided in the shipment are several templates. These will be used to drill holes both in the pieces as well as the CMU backing. Take care of these units. They will assure proper placement of the pins that are recommended to securely fasten the stone to its backing.
Always support the stone well when drilling into it. This may require constructing cradles for each stone type to hold but not mar the surfaces of the material while drilling. Pad the sides with carpet or foam.
Make a template to exact radius of the bottom of the entire curved T-60 design
(R-2’ 11 ¾”; length 5’7”). This template will be used to assure perfect installation and support of arch.
Next: Draw out inner perimeter line of surrounding stone (T-60s). Make sure it is level and square. The most critical measurement is the length of the letters “Rock Harbor”.
Dimensions provided on Installation Drawing 3. You could deviate from drawing 3 dimensions in height somewhat if necessary, but the length is set in stone.
I say this because we were asked to make the sign 5’ x 8’. You will find that the T-60 pieces are exactly 24” long and 6” high. With grout lines, that would equal 5’ ¾” with no cuts. Since fewer cuts are always preferred, you might want to add ¾” to drawing. Also, the T-60s on the bottom need to look even. You can cut them all to achieve that look, or put them in at full length pieces and cut just 1 or 2 T-60s, your preference. Remember the length of the “Rock Harbor” lettering remains the same.
Cutting the pieces on a 14” brick saw works fine, wet or dry.
Installing the perimeter stone T-60s, I would recommend using two methods combined. One of course drilling around 2 ½” deep holes using a ½” masonry bit (SDS) to receive 3/8” rod (ReBar or all thread) or slightly larger hole if you feel you need more play (fudge factor) to line up the pieces.
The SIKA Anchoring Adhesive (Epoxy) works well for this and sets reasonably quickly. The straighter the better, as “less fudge” is needed.
Drilling into the CMU is a different story, as the holes can penetrate into voids in block and push out the anchoring cement (Epoxy) and not leave much to hold the piece. Take care in drilling CMU for this reason (unless the block has been filled with concrete as it was built).
I always butter up the back of the stone some AND the wall in installing with masons cement (grout) highly modified with the Laticrete Admix to assure a great bond and longevity of my work.
So we are working our way around the sign setting our pieces in with Epoxy pins and modified masons cement all with ¼” grout lines and have reached the curved area of the sign. We have provided you with the proper angle as it lays out on the drawing we made. Yet through installation this way changes some. I would make matching templates and lay them up and cut them to be sure before cutting the stone. Remember we don’t have many extras. It is best to be certain of every cut, and then lay up the arch on the top of the radius template FINISHED!!
I would next put a “runner” beneath the letters to let them “rest” until the modified mortar sets, which will take overnight.
I like to use a notched trowel with 3/8” deep spaces, as it gives me more latitude to be certain all pieces are on the same plane and straight.
I would like to mention why I like the Laticrete Admix best. It has excellent bonding characteristics. It has lots of give during weather temperature variations and allows for good working time. There are certainly many products out there, but many set too quickly and don’t allow you the time to move pieces to their perfect position.
We are now at the filler panels. There will be a lot of cutting of these to fill in the open fields around the lettering . I use a good 7 ¼” saw with a thin diamond blade. Also, I put a good painter’s tape (green, if available) or blue, where the saw will cross over the stone. This ensures a smooth cut with no marks on stone. I also make templates of difficult cuts. Once again, wasting stone is not a way to go. I also own a carbide file, round and flat to clean up cuts in areas I can’t get to with the saw. A cupped diamond grinder also helps.
Once the major part of the sign is finished and grouted (you will notice we sealed the stone; this will make cleanup and grouting easier), the layout and installation of the shield is in order. I provided a template for this. I did my best to lay it out so you can drill both the sign and the now covered-with-stone backing. But be certain and check all measurements and center it well before drilling the pilot holes for the pins.
For this you can use 3/16” or 1/8”dowels, in which case ¼” to 5/16” holes should work. Don’t drill too deep into shield, you have “one shot” at this and it must be perfect! Install the pins in the Shield first. This way if you need to make larger holes in the sign to get some wiggle room you can. REMEMBER to leave space behind the sign for grout to fill. You should be able to butter up the space behind the shield as well as the back of the shield some before you install the shield. Having the area behind the shield filled in and grouted well, will insure no weather will enter and destroy it.